1994 Chevy S10 EV Conversion

2010-09-15T12:32:00.002-04:00

I have been meaning to post something for the longest time. But this is really for me.
Some facts about the conversion:

Motor and traction size Advance 9" DC motor, 120VDCc
Weight after conversion with batteries 1845kg; GVWR 2087 kg
Range (so far) 95km with 45% charge remaining.
Max speed (so far) 95 kph.

The range was done over 2 days, and included climbing one quite steep hill and driving a stretch at 95kph.

I have got more used to driving it . I use 1st to get going at stop lights and signs, especially if there s traffic. I drive mainly below 60kph so keep it, it in second once I am over 10-15kph. I keep my eye on my ammeter and try to keep my amps below 200 once I am up to speed. I have never been able to avoid that initial surge over the 400amp line when starting but that is only for less than a second.

I charge the batteries on average every 3 day, when the SOC is between 75 and 50%.
This means somewhere between 45 an 65 km.

All in all, as I get more used to it, I am enjoying it more.

Oh, the cost. The difference between my Aug hydro bill this year, and Aug 2009 is $14. The cost/KwH has increased slightly, but I can be fairly certain that the increase is mostly due to charging the Traction batteries. I drove approx 500km in Aug so the cost/km is about 2.8 cents.

Incidentally, the actual electric use cost about $6, the rest was for delivery and debt retirement charges.

Perhaps a better comparison is that I used to spend about $100/month for gas.
And then there was oil changes, filters, computer engine checks when the check engine light came on, and so forth.

2010-08-07T10:00:00.002-04:00

Well, I finally have been able to log in to my own site after about two weeks of trying. The google people changed something about the blog and I could not remember the old password...Anyway.
I have been driving the EV for a while now and have found out some stuff.
First do not believe everything you read about driving conversions. I think most people who convert cars are much like religious zealots. They will do anything to make you believe that they have the only solution.
First, everywhere I read, the car is supposed to be quiet. Bullshit! It is quiet if it is not running, but the controller and transmission will whine when driving.

There are other things, like nobody reminds you of just how hard it is to steer a vehicle with manual steering at slow speeds.

Oh, and like you can drive it 2nd fro 0 to 60 odd without changing gears.
Oh yes you can,,, but it will take you about a km to get to 50km (without the ammeter going way past 400 amps), and everybody in a km radius will hear the whine.

I just drive it like a normal vehicle now, start in 1st, then change to 2 nd at about 30, then to 3rd if the traffic allows.

I do not have a clutch so have a little problem, if I get caught slowing down in 3rd and the light changes to green. But that I knew beforehand...nobody told me just remembered what it was like to drive a manual without a clutch.. Back in the 60s.

On the other hand, it has been quite simply to figure out what is wrong if it will not run.
Electricity. If none to the contactor terminals, no voltage? then:
kill switch circuit breaker, fuse, fuse, fuse, fuses good? then:
contactor themselves .

So far I have not had to go past the contactor.

A small loose screw was getting jambed in the lower contactor face. Three times before I got smart and took the contactor out. And there it was.

Got a camera, so when I get my fuel gauge back I will ake some pictures....videos even!

2010-07-20T07:45:00.005-04:00

I was just reading my son's post regarding his boat restoration project and thought I would update this.

Well in the spring I got all enthusiastic and started getting the vehicle ready for registration and licensing, only to discover that the Ontario Government had suspended the registration of electric vehicle conversions.

I was not happy. In fact I was very angry. This was in March.

But I did drive it in the parking lot of a near by Food store.
You can cut and paste the link before to see that it actually works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YEE1bBJTOI

Fast forward to early June.

I found out that they had started registering electric conversions again, so I went off trying to get it safety checked and insured. Both proved to be very difficult.

My insurance company said no, as did numerous others. Cooperators found one that would do it for $2500/year, I pay $750/year for my 2001 Caravan. But more searching turned up Desjardins Insurance Group, and they did it for $1010/year.

Finding a mechanic was the same thing, one said he would do it if someone at the MTO, would tell him he could. No way I could find anyone at that place that even knew electric conversion vehicles existed. But I lucked out and found a guy not only willing to do it, but quite interested at the concept.

So now I have Insurance and Safety Certificate in hand, but I have to go to Toronto to get it registered and licensed. One of only two Cities in Ontario that will do it. The other is Ottawa. I figure that is because those two Offices will have people there that know all about the new process.

WRONG. I was to be the first that they had done.

Two and a half hours later, that is from 11:45 am until 2:15 pm, NO waiting in line, I finally had had my registration and license plates in hand. Oh, and two stickers to place on the windshieild and rear window indicating "Electric conversion".

That was July 6 2010. nearly two years after I bought the original 1994 S10.

I have been driving it regularly since July 9 2010.

The highest speed I have done is 90 kph, and the max distance on a charge was 71 km, both done yesterday, but it was really dragging its arse getting up the hill before my house at the end of my tour. My fuel gauge (State of Charge) meter is being fixed so I do not know how much battery reserve I had. I let it sit for about a half and hour, and then checked the traction voltage. It was 121 volts, but again, I do not know what that represents in terms of percent discharge.

I will say that I had driven it harder yesterday than any day before, so that probably had an effect on the range.

I am keeping a log so we shall see.

My camera broke, so have no pictures, but will try to borrow one, probably from my granddaughter, and post some.

2009-09-22T07:31:00.004-04:00

Update. I have decided that I will not sell the project yet. I have finished the bed and tail light wiring. I have also made a rear bumper and replaced the front rotors and brake pads.

I have also sent the Zivan charger to be re-calibrated for 225 amp hour batteries.

I have found a possible source of used 6 volts batteries available in the spring, for $40/ea, which will allow me to test the vehicle. I may not have great range with them, but will be able to get it licensed.

Then I will decide what to do with it.

I will try and post a picture shortly

2009-06-23T17:23:00.003-04:00

Ok. I have decided to sell the S10, as is, with what has been done to date.
The following parts were purchased fron EV America, and except for
the motor being tested with a 12 volt battery, have never been used:
all prices in US

FBI-401A Advanced DC Motor 72V - 144 Volt......................... $1550
Adapeter plate for clutchless design, motor coupling and
Motor mount , contactors Potbox $1295

Battery System
Zivan NG3 Charger, 120VDC, 140 VAC for Trojans T125,
terminals, cable lugs,
heat shrink, lug protectors $1484

Instruments $160
Power brakes : Vacuum pump, vacuum switch etc $365

Connectors, heater, DC/DC converter $743

Total with shipping , and tax $6542.00

Curtis controller slightly used... $900

In Canada (cdn dollars)

1994 S10, no rust, $1000
new rear brakes lines, drums, shoes, 5 leaf springs,
shock absorbers approx $1500.

other including, battery racks $500

$6000, as is.

2009-04-18T12:43:00.002-04:00

well the motor and transmission are in. My son came over at about 10:00 this morning and I have just come back from returning the rented engine lift. So 21/2 hours not bad. Some slight hitches, but nothing major.
A word of advice; if you are converting a S10 with a 4.3L 6 cylinder engine, cut the Aluminum adapter plate really close to the Bell housing, especially by the starter /clutch lever area.
So now its to finish the traction wiring and the other bits and pieces and then decide if I am actually going to get batteries for it. $3000 odd dollars, makes you think.

2009-04-16T21:40:00.004-04:00

April 3 I posted some of the problems I was having at the time. I think I have finally beaten General Motors and have the problems of the car wiring etc solved. The wiper switch has been replaced and all the associated things that have cropped up over the last two weeks (seems like a year) have been dealt with. I have no respect for GM engineers, and the company.
I am now (today) starting on the traction wiring (simple, compared to the car wiring). I will mount the 250amp circuit beaker(kill switch) between the seats, and put in the clear vinyl conduit for the 2/0 welding wire.
The weather for next week looks good for motor /transmission installation so will try for that, again solo, I don't know what I am doing, so how can I ask anyone to help me do what I don't know what I am doing....think about it!

However, in the grand scheme of things, I seem to be making progress.

2009-04-03T12:21:00.002-04:00

I have not posted anything since the fall, because I did nothing over the winter, but think...bad idea.
However, since the return of warmer weather I have made some progress on the project. I still think it was not good idea, but am in too deep to quit now. I have:
1.Replaced the dashboard. Boy that was a job. I had removed it in October to fit the heater in and had to try to figure out what went where.
2. Spent about a month wiring the various circuits...I had to redo almost everyone, it looked simple but it was frustrating.
3. Put the motor and the transmission together..they are just waiting for a few warm days to put them in place.
4. Built a vacuum reservoir and hooked up the vacuum pump and system to the brake system.
5. Pulled the multi-switch lever (turn, dimmer and washer) out of its socket on the steering wheel, and am now trying to get it back in place. It seems to never end, I get one thing done and two things mess up!
I will post pictures soon

2008-10-28T08:48:00.001-04:00

Well, I think this project was not a good idea. So many things have gone wrong that I am going to put it on hold until the spring. Then I will decide if I want to continue, or sell the parts I have purchased.

2008-10-22T08:27:00.002-04:00

I got a call yesterday to say that Yellow Freight had found my EVA shipment. So I expect to pick it up sometime today or tomorrow. However, it is -1 outside now, and I do not do cold,
although a high of 9 is forecast. I will spend a day or two reading the manual.

2008-10-16T11:38:00.003-04:00

I have not written anything for the past two weeks as I have had nothing to write about. Nothing that is except for the fact the paperwork for the EVA stuff arrived on Oct 2, I cleared it through customs (no problem) but I went to pick it up, They told me it was lost. Today I put in a claim for the cost as well as one to Revenue Canada, for the taxes I paid on a non-existent shipment.

Therefore there probably won't be another post until 10 days to 2 weeks.
I t is getting too cold to do much outside, so this maybe the end of the EDV conversion until the spring. I do not do cold very well

2008-10-02T09:46:00.002-04:00

The battery rack finally arrived Yesterday. I am very happy with it, especially because it only weighs 60 lbs. I have added a picture of it to the Album.
The order from EVA is on its way and is supposed to arrive today. However, according to the online tracker was still in the USA this morning. Ah well, this one of the reasons I have put no deadline or timetable on this project.

I will let you know when it arrives, and what I had to do to get through customs.

2008-09-16T10:25:00.003-04:00

Well, I have just finished doing what I think is the last mechanical repair/redo. I replaced the leaking rear pinion seal. Boy was that fun! I spent the most part of yesterday trying to tap the seal in but was convinced that it was the wrong size. I left it in the afternoon and thought about it last night.
This morning I inspected the area more closely and sure enough the old seal had rusted itself to the differential. I had been trying to place the new seal over the old one. Maybe I should stick to carpentry. I got old seal out in 10 minutes, and had the new one in in about 5 minutes.

Now I wait until the parts from EVA arrive to continue. I will finish painting the frame and the battery racks. I may also remove the padding underneath the carpet, as I have been told it weights about 25 lbs. Also the padding under the hood.
So I don't expect to post much until the EVA parts arrive. I may tidy up the garage and take some pictures.

2008-09-13T08:14:00.002-04:00

The rear brakes have been completed, and Sean is coming over today to help me adjust the parking brake. He will also help to check the torque on the spring nuts.

I gave the metal shop the plans for the battery box frame and should get that on Tuesday.

Did I mention that I have replaced the cross-member that I cut out?

The EV stuff I ordered from EVA; motor charger adapter etc, should be shipped by month end.

I checked the chassis electrical system yesterday, and as far as I can see I have not cut any important wires.

I found out from a guy at the wreckers that the floor has a lining under the carpet that weights about 30lbs, so that will go. Also racing sears weight about 12 lbs vs 50 for the regular seat, but cost about $230 a pair.

Also found out that for Ontario safety check all that is needed is that the blower works through the defrost, no heat needed.

This site is the best I have found as a "how to do it"
http://www.northrim.net/wyanders/ev/

2008-09-09T08:58:00.004-04:00

Well, I have been watching the Olympics, cricket and golf, and doing other stuff so have not spent at lot of time on the truck. But that's how it will be, I will only work on it when I feel like it, otherwise it would be a job!
However, I have the new 5 leaf springs in and torqued, as well as new shocks. I can now finish the brakes and the lines.
But talk about ridiculous! The manual gives torque values like 73 ft/lbs, why not 72.33? Or 89ft/lbs, Well my torque wrench is not that accurate and 90 will have to do until they get re-torqued again after 50 miles, by a shop guy.

Well, the sun is shining and I have yard work to do, so I am not sure when I will get to the brakes.

2008-08-19T08:22:00.003-04:00

Well, the past few days have been frustrating. I have been trying to take off the springs to put an extra leaf in them. The manual says " remove the nut from the shackle bolt and slide the bolt out of the shackle, while an assistant supports the spring." Ah! I removed the nut, and after two cans of WD40, ans pounding with a sledge hammer, I have had to cut the bolts from inside the shackle. I have removed one spring and the bolt shaft is firmly rusted in the bushing. So much for "slide the bolt out."!!

I have also been reading the Ontario safety standards, and am not sure with removing a frame cross-member will be accepted by a mechanic for the safety check. I may have to replace it. It would make it simpler to place the batteries, I would just put them on the frame level.
I have also replaced (or am replacing) all the rear brake parts, and lines. They looked Ok, but why take chances?

2008-08-14T15:28:00.002-04:00

Boy this battery placement is moving around like a hockey puck in overtime.
I was speaking to a suspension specialist last evening and he pointed out that the weakest part of the frame is at the rear. So I am not going to mess with that rear cross member. l will probably put 3 batteries behind the axle, 12 in front of the axle, and 5 in the engine compartment. This means that my flat bed will be raised a little higher, but I will still get 8" of cargo space, depth wise. And of course, 54 " across.

2008-08-13T08:04:00.003-04:00

I have been thinking about the battery box placements and have come up with an idea that will move 11 batteries in front of the rear axle, 5 just behind it , and 4 in the engine compartment. I have been experimenting with a sandwiching foam between fiberglass to place between the metal battery racks (boxes) and the batteries.
I have also been doing small things like replacing the AC heater box as I am not going to use the AC. The amount of space in the front opened by the new heater box is large.
I had to break the part of the AC box by the fender into pieces in order to get it out. It must be fastened to the firewall before the cab is joined to the rest of the vehicle, because there are 3 unreachable bolts hidden behind the wheel well and the AC box.

I can not weld, but have found a machine shop that I feel confident with, discussed what I was doing, and the fact I would like to build the battery racks (boxes) in stages to make sure at each stage that they would fit. He had no problem with that.

Also lined up a Trojan battery place that will sell the T105 for $125, and the T125 for $135, since I am buying 20.

2008-08-06T11:48:00.001-04:00

Just added a few more photos.

2008-08-05T08:32:00.002-04:00

I have been plugging away at building the 5 battery boxes, using plywood bases and 1/4 MDF sides. I have reinforced the corners with metal sheetrock corner bead glued with epoxy and will cover the boxes with fiberglass. I will post pictures of the them and the mock-up battery racks when I am finished. But i have been working slowly over the pass few days as I have family coming, ones that didn't make it to Jamaica, and have to clean the house, so have been dividing my time between the two jobs.

I have also replaced the power steering box with a manual box. There were no manual boxes at any of the wreckers in London, so they had to bring one in from out of town. Cost me $228 shipping and taxes.

I have ordered the motor (ADC F1-4001A) and transmission housing plate from EVA. I will be ordering almost all my what I need from them. One Canadian company in Toronto, hasn't bothered to reply to a email I sent a week ago, and the other sells the same motor for about $200 more. The same % mark up is true of most other items.

I do not expect the Motor stuff for another two weeks so will continue to work on the the battery racks and boxes in the meantime. I may also remove dash board in preparation for the stuff that comes through the firewall or sits behind the dash

2008-07-31T13:35:00.003-04:00

I have been away in Jamaica for a family reunion, and so have nor written anything for a few days. I still don't feel motivated, but have been making a mock up of the battery boxes racks for under the bed out of 2x2s to make sure everything will fit, before I get them fabricated in steel. I also have been making battery boxes out of plywood and 1/4 inch MDF which I intend to fiberglass.

I spent a a good time on a hot Tuesday evening grinding away two top rivets that held the cross-member in place. Later that night in dawned on me, SAWZALL! Sure enough yesterday morning I spent about 5 minutes cutting the member out. Half an hour grinding rivets, 5 minutes cutting it off.
I have made a decision with regard to motor and adapter plate. I have not had good response from the two Canadian dealers I have checked with regard to a Warp9 motor. This makes me wonder, if they cannot bother to get back to you if you are trying to buy something, what would they be like if you needed them to fulfil a warrentee?
So I am going to go the clutch-pedal less route offered by EV of America. I emailed them this morning asking for instructions and how to pay etc , and just received a reply. So this little post will have to end.

2008-07-23T07:35:00.002-04:00

This is about licensing your EV in Ontario.
After visiting my local MTO licensing office, visiting my MPP, and countless phone calls to MTO in Toronto, I finally got an answer. So simple:
When I bought the Chevy, I did not license it, I simply transferred the ownership. This makes it easier.
When I go to license it, I get an "Application for Vehicle Registration" green form. On the right side of the form is a section "Office Use Only". Section F has a box "M/P", just tell the clerk to enter "E" there. Yep, thats all there is to it. Of course you will need a safety inspection. The person (last one) I spoke to at the MTO Office said that although there is no requirement to prove that the vehicle's motive power(M/P) is electric, it wouldn't hurt to keep receipts and have your mechanic write a note certifying that the vehicle is an EV and does not require an emissions test.

I know that Cooperators and State Farm will insure EVs, and see no reason why your present Insurance Company would not. Make an appointment to see your Rep, and explain that this is not a "modification" but simply a engine replacement. Get your Rep to phone Head Office.

Street electric vehicles have always been legal in Ontario. It is the low speed vehicles like the Zenn ( less than 40kph) that are not street legal.

2008-07-22T06:51:00.005-04:00

Well, all the parts to be removed have been removed, and I am cleaning out the garage so that I can roll the S10 into it. A daunting job!
Anyway, rewind in time to the underneath of the chevy.
My initial thoughts was to remove just the engine, but some very difficult lower bell housing bolts, and an article in Home Power magazine, made me reconsider. I finally decided that I would remove the engine with the transmission attached.
If I remember right, the only real problem I had (with regard to removing bolts) was removing the bolts that held the passenger side transmission cross-member to the frame.
As mentioned earlier, I also forgot to remove the gas lines attached to the transmission.

Removing the Engine and transmission was not a problem, I did it alone.
However, there was one major (and one minor) boo boo on my part. The Haynes manual suggested that I "place" a plastic bag over the end of the transmission and "secure'" it with a rubber band.
I confess, I did not read that part very well, nor did I think out its purpose properly, I guess I was focused on removing the engine/trans.

The purpose of that the plastic bag is to stop the trans fluid was flowing out of the end of the trans. Have you ever tried to replace say a Toilet supply tube that doesn't have a shut-off valve on hand only to realize after you are half way through as water starts to spray all over the place that you forgot to turn off the water , from down in the basement?
Well something like that happened to me when I started to lift the engine out at an angle.
Fortunately, I kept checking everything quite often, and quickly realized why the plastic bag was there!!!
Let me suggest that you use a strong plastic bag, two or three wide rubber bands and lots of duct to tape to seal that end.

I also didn't read the "remove" the gear shift lever part of the manual properly, and left the short lever (the part that the shift lever is attached to) from the trans in place when I should have removed it. Removing it would have made the job it a bit easier, but was really not a big thing.

I had also removed the box bolts while underneath, and removed the box while I had the engine lift.

So we are , I think, up-to-date with my project. The next post will be about information regarding licensing and insuring an EV in Ontario.

2008-07-18T07:52:00.003-04:00

The gas components have nearly all been removed, and I have started removing grease and rust, (cleaning is not my favorite job) but am going to do it slowly, so that I can do it as best as possible.
I found a deal at CTC for a 3 ton hydraulic jack and 2 3 ton axle stands, you must have these.
In the meantime I will go back to the beginning.
First step:
i) I removed the belt, alternator, rad, water pump, and hoses, and pulleys (except for the power steering pulley) with no problem. As mentioned before I removed what bolts I could from the power steering and Alternator bracket, and cut the one (or two, I can't remember now)bolt that was hidden behind the pulley, and the bracket that is also held by the manifold bolt.
ii) I am not going to tell you how I got the A/C off , except to say, that the unit had a leak and the coolant escaped, and I was able to use my sawzall, since there was NO coolant in the system. I still have a small bit of that to remove.
iii) Under the vehicle, with my sawzall to cut the exhaust pipes. Try to cut the pipes as close to the manifold as you can. The drivers side one was a breeze, the passenger side one had to be cut from two sides. My engine was a 6 cyl, so a 4 cyl might be easier. The manuals say " remove the studs holding the exhaust to the manifolds." Those of you who have laid on your back trying to "remove" those studs, will be rolling on the floor laughing right now. If you have never attempted that process and don't have a sawzall, go buy one now, and save yourself a whole pile of frustration.
I also cut away the catalytic converter. Love that sawzall!!
iv) If I remember rightly I then removed the exhaust manifolds, with the cutoff pipes attached. You will have to remove the spark plugs and the various sensors sticking out from the block. One such brute on the drivers side acted quite stubbornly...until... sawzall to the rescue!
Just a note I started this nearly a month ago, and am not certain about the sequence of events anymore, I just know that whenever I encountered a problem, I just left the vehicle for a few days while I thought about it. Went back to it when I had figured out a solution.. usually ..yep SAWZALL!
v ) The intake manifold was fairly routine to remove, you have to dismantle it a bit to get to all the bolts , but no great problem.

I think that about brings me up-to-date with most of the engine compartment removal process. Next back underneath to work at those parts.

2008-07-17T07:37:00.003-04:00

I have uploaded pictures I took yesterday, unfortunately I have none of anything before, didn't think I would be doing anything like this.
They are at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/rgamitchell/EVConversion

I will be posting any new pictures there

2008-07-17T07:04:00.000-04:00

This is my first post. I am new at this and so might take a while to get to know what I am doing.
Something like the conversion of a gas vehicle to a EV that I am undertaking.
I decided to try to do this blog thing after I found out that there are others like me out there, fairly intelligent, and with modest mechanical skills, that get rather frustrated when the first instruction for converting to an EV found in so many EV conversion articles is to "remove the gas engine." Well, duh!
But how? The manual I bought (Haynes) for example says "remove the power steering pump pulley by using a special puller." That's fine if you are going to keep the power steering, and if so this blog may not be your cup of tea.
I am changing to a manual steering, and so removed what bolts I had easy access to, and simply used my magic tool, my Sawzall, and cut away the rest. And the blasted tubes leading to and from the pump.

What I am going to try to do is to document what I did, and where I found problems and how I solved them, usually with the SAwzall!

My son is setting this up for me, and I think you will be able to post comments, and I think I will be able to post pictures, but we will see.